Angelo’s Restaurant: A Classic Italian Cuisine Experience by Kathleen Foor

Kathleen Foor is a 47 year old single mother of an adventurous eight year old. Kathleen will be graduating in the spring with a Bachelor of Arts in Business Studies from Fairleigh Dickinson University. In her spare time, she loves to spend time with her daughter, read a good book and cook a sumptuous meal. She enjoys cooking different recipes and over time has developed a passion for Italian food. Kathleen grew up in north Jersey and moved to south Jersey 10 years ago. Her quest to find a restaurant in her area to fulfill her desire for the ultimate taste of Italian cuisine has not been successful. For over 20 years, her favorite place to eat authentic Italian food still resides in Lyndhurst, NJ.

                                                                                      

On a busy street in downtown Lyndhurst, New Jersey, is a place known to the locals as a “Quintessential old school red-sauce headquarters.” Angelo’s is located on the corner of Ridge Road and Freeman Street. This place cannot be overlooked with its massive red awning and lounge style exterior. Angelo’s has been a family owned business since 1957. The owner, Angelo Piccirillo has not changed his philosophy of running the business when it comes to the decor, ambiance, menu, and food in more than five decades. Nevertheless, its reputation in North Jersey ranks high above any flashy or trendy digs. Just ask anyone in the area, this place has a distinctive flair. 

The restaurant’s interior has old world charm. It is dimly lit and is reminiscent of the 1960's. The bar, which is located to the right of a large open dining area, is made of dark mahogany wood and the bar stools seats are upholstered in red leather. All the walls throughout the restaurant are covered with murals of Italy. The main dining area includes both tables and booth seating. The tables are covered with crisp white linens and lit by candlelight. 

The ambiance is quiet, relaxed and comfortable. Thoughts of old movies and the “Rat Pack” come to mind. The waiters wear bow ties, white shirts and jackets. There is an aroma of garlic and sweet basil from the kitchen that fills the air. The urge to go over to the kitchen door and take a peek in is over whelming. The clientele is mixed with young, old, couples and families. The wine list has adequate selections and is reasonable priced as compared to other restaurants. The menu looks as old as the establishment, which adds to the charm. Prices range from $12 to $31.

The food section is presented in a traditional Italian style, and the main dishes include seafood, pasta, and meat. Not a single chicken dish is listed. Salads include shrimp, mixed or house salad, and tomato salad Angelo. The house salad has the basic ingredients of lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, onions and olives. It large enough for two and has just the right amount of oil and vinegar. Appetizers include antipasto, caprese, with mozzarella, tomato and basil, clam cocktail and reganata (breadcrumbs, garlic and butter), and calamari fritti. The shrimp with sauce and biscuit can be served with medium or hot sauce. The shrimp is tender, crispy and tangy. To say this dish is tasty is an understatement. It is a flavor explosion that tantalizes the taste bids. The best part is the biscuit, which sits in the sauce and is drenched with flavor that is simply unforgettable.

Pastas include homemade manicotti, ravioli, rigatoni, spaghetti and linguine. These can be served as appetizers, main course or on the side. Rigatoni with ricotta cheese is fabulous. The rigatoni is cooked just right and nicely coated with the tomato sauce. When the rigatoni is eaten with a touch of the fresh ricotta cheese on the side, it is a match made in heaven. The veal cutlet and salad is divine. The veal is lightly breaded, cooked to perfection and melts in your mouth. The best dish by far is the lobster tails reganata, which is priced at $30.75, but worth every cent. The lobster is sizzling when served and comes with an enticing aroma of butter, garlic and oregano. The lobster meat is tender and sweet. The menu also includes filet mignon, eggplant, meatballs and sausages. Portions are average size, which is a good thing since the deserts are homemade.

The desert menu includes a variety of traditional Italian classics like tortini, spumoni, Italian cheese cake, rum cake, and tiramisu. The Italian cheese cake is not a typical cheese cake made with Philadelphia band cream cheese. The main ingredient and star of the dish is homemade ricotta cheese. This desert is dense and creamy, but not too heavy. A slice of this heavenly cheese cake with a cup of hot steamy cappuccino is delightful. When the bill arrives, several questions remain, “What is in the sauce that makes it taste so good and what will be ordered next time?” Not all that have dined at Angelo’s appreciate this unique dining establishment that refuses to change with time. 

Angelo’s has received mixed reviews over the years, both positive and negative. Most of the negative reviews were directed at its lack of menu selections and the dated decor. One diner wrote: “Talk about boring, spaghetti, meatballs, manicotti, veal, eggplant parm. I do not see what’s so great about what your mom cooks every Sunday.”  Another diner wrote: “Same menu – different day, not that the food is awful, but having been here more or less on a fairly regular basis seeing the same offerings made me stop coming!” However the positive reviews continue to praise the simplicity and timelessness of the restaurant and include the following comments: “Basic good Italian food”, “Authentic simple Italian in a quaint environment.” “One of the best old school Italian places in NJ, My parents went there on their first date over 50 years ago, as did my wife and I 14 years ago. What makes this place great is that they had the same menu the whole time.”

Angelo’s is a classic restaurant that serves good food consistently. It is unlike any restaurant from the food to the nostalgic atmosphere. It is quite clear why Angelo’s Piccirillo has not changed a thing. Why fix it if it isn't broken. If a hip, fancy and upscale restaurant is appealing, then Angelo’s is not the place to dine. However, if eating classic Italian food in casual, comfortable and old-style setting is tempting then take the time and stop by Angelo’s. It will be an extraordinary experience and will undoubtedly become a favorite place to dine.